The Ancient Story of Malpua: India's Oldest Dessert & Its Many Avatars

Round, flat, and dipped in a sugar syrup, malpuas are a delectable dessert that originated from the Indian subcontinent. They stand as strong contenders against other popular desserts for the spot of most beloved Indian dessert. While that debate continues, malpua’s (also known as malpuri) claim to fame is that it is the oldest dessert in the Indian subcontinent.

Malpua’s Origin: From Apupa To Malpua, A 3000-Year Journey

References in the Rigveda

The oldest and most important of the four Vedas, the Rig Veda is a collection of Sanskrit hymns. It also contains the first written record of the malpua, as mentioned by food historian Om Prakash in his book Food and Drinks of Ancient India: From Earliest Times to C.1200 A.D. He says that pua or apupa were “cakes made of rice or barley meal cooked in clarified butter on slow fire”. Other ancient texts mention dishes that were “stuffed with fried wheat flour” or “prepared with the addition of milk and juice of sugarcane”. In his book A Historical Dictionary of Indian Food, food historian KT Achaya mentions that the Buddhists used broken rice to make the dish, and called it ‘kanapuvam’. Although there are slight variations, the essence of the dish remains the same.

The Evolution of Ingredients

With Malpua’s origin rooted in the Vedic era, it has come a long way over the centuries, writing a sweet history of evolution. The present-day malpua is a classic result of that evolution in terms of ingredients. Apupa, the ancient version mentioned in the Rig Veda, was nothing but a sacred offering made of barley flour, fried in ghee, and sweetened with honey. During the second century, ancient manuscripts are believed to identify a shift in the ingredients to wheat flour, milk, sugar, and aromatics like ginger, pepper, and cardamom.

However, the present-day Malpua is still closest to the version created by the mughal reign. During this period, rich ingredients like egg and mawa or khoya found their places in the malpua recipe. And the same tradition continues today during occasions like Janmashtami, Eid, Ramadan, Holi, and Diwali.

Malpua Across India: Regional Varieties

If anyone asks, “Malpua is from which state?”, there is no clear answer to the question. Different parts of India also treat the dessert differently, depending on locally established traditions that have evolved. For instance, Rajasthan makes a rabdi malpua, the batter being an amalgamation of rabdi and flour. In the east, semolina, fennel seeds, and cardamom are added to the batter for added flavor. In coastal Odisha, coconut is included in the batter and sometimes, even the taala palm fruit. In Bengal, when they are in season, sweet potato is added to the batter, called ranga aloor malpua. In Lucknow, milk is reduced to a kheer-like consistency and mixed with khoya and flour to prepare the batter. On the streets of Bhubaneshwar, malpua is served with a side of spicy alu kassa, which is an aloo sabji, and topped with sev.

The Bihari Pua: A Holi Staple

The Bihar version of malpua is a festive staple in the state. Popularly called ‘pua’, it is often served with chicken or mutton curry. Here, the sweetness of pua is balanced by the savory, spicy taste of curry. While Pua is a must during Holi, it is also served during other occasions like Chhath Puja and weddings. This version of the deep-fried sweet pancake from Bihar is made from a batter of all-purpose flour, semolina, mashed ripe bananas, sugar, milk, and spices like fennel seeds and cardamom. While the ingredients are quite similar to the other versions, Pua is served dry instead of being soaked in sugar syrup.

Odisha's Temple Tradition

Malpua’s long history takes us to Odisha, where the Jagannath temple records offer insights about the dish. It was seemingly introduced during King Gajapati Prataparudra Deva’s reign, who in turn was influenced by the saint Chaitanya Mahaprabhu. It’s thus believed that since the early 16th century, it was part of the chappan bhog at the temple, where it’s called amalu. In the temple’s evening rituals or sandhya dhoopa, three types of amalu are offered to the deities. It’s also present during special occasions like Makar Sankranti, Pausa Purnima, Nabanna, and Snana Purnima. It’s also offered to Lord Jagannath’s wife, goddess Bimala, during Navratri.

The Rich Rabri-Malpua of the North

The North Indian edition is all about the double decadence of malpua and rabri. Popular across the kitchens of North Indian states, this dessert is mandatory during festive celebrations like Holi, Diwali, Eid, and more. Here, the deep-fried, sweet, khoya-filled malpuas meet the milky, creamy richness of rabri to create a melt-in-the-mouth kind of experience.

Cultural Significance: Festivals and Feasts

In the Indian dessert landscape, the recipe of Malpua is a culinary antique. Brimming with thousands of years of history, evolution, and experimentation, it has always been a cultural icon when it comes to Indian cuisine. With several adaptations in flavors and ingredients, this sweet delight also bridges the gap between ancient traditions and modern celebrations.

Being one of the oldest Indian desserts, Malpua is often seen as a symbol of joy, hospitality, and the sweetness of Indian traditions. With its presence since the Vedic period, this sweet holds high cultural significance in festivals across religions. Be it Holi, Diwali, Janmashtami, Ramadan, Chhath Puja, Eid, or Teej, the presence of Malpua completes the celebrations like nothing else.

How to Make Authentic Malpua at Home

Ingredients

For the malpua batter

• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp fennel seeds
• 4 green cardamoms, crushed
• ⅛ tsp baking soda
• ½ cup water
• 3 tbsp khoya
• 3 tbsp curd

For frying the malpua

• 4 tbsp ghee

For the sugar syrup

• ½ cup sugar
• ¼ cup water

Instructions

1. In a bowl, mix the flour, fennel seeds, and cardamom powder.
2. Add the khoya and curd.
3. Add water and stir, removing all lumps.
4. Cover batter and set aside for 30 minutes.
5. Soak almonds and pistachios in hot water for 20 minutes. Then peel and slice. Set aside.
6. In a pan, add the sugar and water. Stir so the sugar dissolves and let the mixture simmer. The sugar syrup should have a stringy consistency. Set it aside in a hot water bath. If left cool, it will crystallize.
7. Heat the ghee in a pan.
8. Add baking soda to the batter and pour a spoonful into the pan. Fry on low to medium heat.
9. Once both sides are golden, place the malpua in the sugar syrup.
10. When it has soaked in the syrup, transfer to a serving plate. Repeat until all the batter is used up.
11. Pour rabdi on top and garnish with chopped nuts. Serve hot.