The Long Story Behind the Christmas Pudding and the Many Myths Associated With it

Christmas pudding is a dish with a long history and is steeped in western tradition. Read about it here, from origins to history, and a recipe.

The traditional Christmas pudding, plum pudding or figgy pudding has long been recorded in the Christmas carol We Wish You A Merry Christmas, in the lines:

• Now bring us a figgy pudding
• Now bring us a figgy pudding
• Now bring us a figgy pudding
• And bring some out here

It’s traditionally served with a brandy sauce, brandy butter or custard, and a christmas meal is incomplete without it.

This delectable and indulgent dessert has a long history, originating in 14th century England. At the time it was, in consistency, closer to a porridge and called “frumenty”. To make it, wheat was boiled in milk and seasoned with cinnamon. Saffron was also infused in it, which gave it a bright color. There emerged, over time, many variations to the recipe, with additions like beef, mutton, raisins, wines, and assorted spices. Around the 17th century, the recipe changed more visibly. Eggs, breadcrumbs, dry fruits and beer were added. It became closer to a modern day pudding.

Interestingly, around the 1600s, the pudding was banned by Oliver Cromwell who came to power in 1647. For Puritans, the pudding and other traditionals like carol singing were paganism. When they were deposed in 1660, the Christmas pudding was also restored. In her 1714 book A Collection of above Three Hundred Receipts in Cookery, Physick and Surgery, Mary Kettilby records one of the earliest recipes for a plum pudding. There are also stories that George I was referred to as the ‘pudding king,’ because he allegedly requested that plum pudding be served at his Christmas banquet in England.

But it wasn't until the dish was further fine-tuned during the Victorian era that it started resembling the Christmas pudding, as it's enjoyed today. In her bestselling 1845 book Modern Cookery for Private Families, Eliza Action first refers to the dish as a Christmas Pudding, signaling its growing importance as a festive mainstay.

Its popularity is also attested to by the fact that it's mentioned in classic literature. Charles Dickens’ Christmas Carol references it and Agatha Christie's Hercule Poirot solves a case related to it. In 1848, a satirical cartoon called ‘John Bull showing the foreign powers how to make a constitutional plum pudding’ included a British standin who was about to carve a pudding labeled ‘Liberty of the Press’, ‘Trial by Jury’, ‘Common Sense’ and ‘Order’. In 1885, a newspaper reported that the pudding, which was sent via a special envoy from Tehran, was enjoyed by a group of British soldiers in Afghanistan.

Today, the dish calls for 13 ingredients, which represent Jesus and his 12 disciples. These include, raisins, suet, brown sugar, currants, citron, orange peel, lemon peel, breadcrumbs, flour, spices, eggs, milk and brandy. The pudding, once ready, is doused in brandy and set alight. Although it's indulgent, the pudding is also rather healthy. The dry fruits have fiber, vitamins and minerals. Ingredients like walnuts, pecans and almonds can also be added to the batter, and these are particularly healthy too. The fruits are nutritious and full of iron. The spices aid in digestion and are anti-inflammatory.

Traditionally, the pudding has always included trinkets like coins and rings. Whoever found the coin was said to have good luck for the coming year. Tradition also says that every member of the family should take part in stirring the pudding while it's being prepared, from east to west three times, reminiscing about the three wise men.

Although eating the Christmas pudding is primarily a British tradition, it's also eaten in Australia, South Africa and the US. Leftover pudding can also be used for other recipes, like strudels and black puddings. Or simply mix the pudding with vanilla ice cream and enjoy it as is.

A classic Christmas Pudding recipe:

Ingredients:

For the pudding:

• 50 gm blanched almonds
• 2 large apples
• 200 gm box candied peel
• 1 nutmeg
• 1 kg raisins
• 140 gm plain flour
• 100 gm white breadcrumbs
• 100 gm sugar
• 3 large eggs
• 2 tbsp brandy or cognac, plus more to light the pudding
• 250 gm butter

For the brandy and ginger butter:

• 175 gm unsalted butter, softened
• grated zest of half an orange
• 5 tbsp icing sugar
• 4 tbsp brandy or cognac
• 2 pieces of stem ginger, finely chopped