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Time traveling with desserts: A brief history of “koptoplakous,” a predecessor of the baklava

Written by Heta Joshi | Dec 30, 2023 5:30:00 AM

The sumptuous baklava dessert evolved from an ancient Byzantine sweet dish known as koptoplakous.

In this article, we will journey back to one of the most glorious time-periods of history. At its height, the Byzantine Empire, also known as the Eastern Roman Empire, was a formidable dynasty that was founded in 330 AD. The Byzantine Empire flourished under the legendary Roman Emperor Constantine whose power and influence revolutionized art, architecture, literature, religion, and remarkably, even food. The storied city of Constantinople, which is present-day Istanbul, served as the heart and command center of the Byzantine Empire. Remnants of this erstwhile empire can still be witnessed in countries, such as Greece, Turkey, and the Middle East in general.

The Byzantine Empire is famed for its stunning mosaics, still found in Christian Orthodox churches across several countries, including Palestine, Syria, Egypt, and Lebanon. Additionally, the empire’s most significant contribution to contemporary society may be the architectural marvel of the Hagia Sophia. This mosque is the crown jewel of Istanbul and attracts thousands of visitors every year. Apart from being pioneers in the fields of art and architecture, the Byzantines were also food connoisseurs, with the empire boasting a rich, vibrant, and experimental food culture. Being one arm of the Roman Empire, the Byzantines’ diet had similarities with the ancient Romans’ food habits.

For instance, food historians have found that the Byzantines extensively consumed Mediterranean-based foods, including olives, grains, lemons, oranges, and cereals. Bread, eggs, and cheese were staple foods for all strata Byzantine society. The Byzantines also had a fondness of meat, with lamb and pork being particular favorites. Sweets formed a vital part of the Byzantine diet; in fact, sweet dishes, such as rice and other types of puddings are believed to have originated here. One particular Byzantine-era sweet dish—koptoplakous—takes the cake though. Today, we will delve into this mystical dessert as well as trace the history and origin of its beloved offshoot, the baklava.

The term “koptoplakous” has roots in the ancient Greek language; it comes from the word “plakous” which literally translates to a slim or tiered flatbread. Food historians speculate that the Eastern Romans of the Byzantine Empire acquired the skill of plakous or “pita” making from the ancient Greeks, thus laying the foundation for the creation of the pastry dessert koptoplakous, which is widely considered the earliest iteration of the mouthwatering baklava. The idea of koptoplakous, in turn, was derived from an ancient Greek dish known as “placenta cake.” Essentially, placenta cake comprises multiple layers of dough that are filled with a blend of ingredients, such as cheese and honey.

The ancient food wizards of the Byzantine Empire used this placenta cake for the basis of koptoplakous. Just like the placenta cake, koptoplakous was also composed of various layers, each filled with a concoction of delectable food items. These ingredients were typically honey to add sweetness to the dish and nuts to give the dish some much-needed crunch. This dish was further innovated upon by the Ottoman Empire who conquered present-day Turkey and other nearby regions after the fall of the Byzantine Empire sometime around the 15th century. A vast majority of food historians and scholars believe that it was the Ottomans who perfected koptoplakous to give rise to the splendid baklava sweet dish that is a fixture across the dessert menus of the Middle East, and admired and savored all over the world.

So, what exactly is baklava? The word “baklava” has Turkish roots, with “bakla” meaning the act of piling filo sheets. Baklava is a delicious, melt-in-your-mouth sweet dish that is prepared using slender, paper-thin sheets of filo pastry. In the 17th century, during the reign of the Ottoman Empire, baklava was regarded as a symbol of national honor and pride. According to legend, the dish was prepared in large quantities and given to the soldiers and the military during the 15th day Ramadan celebrations. The sweet dish was suffused with the pistachio nut, sliced into a plethora of tiny shapes, and drenched in rose syrup. To this day, pistachio remains a big hit among makers of baklava. Similarly, the baklava served in Turkey today—Turkish baklava—is a variation of this ancient, celebratory dish.

The Greeks, too, have their own version of baklava. A point of distinction between Turkish and Greek baklava is that the latter uses a chunkier and richer filo pastry dough. Greek baklava is also typically infused with walnut rather than pistachio, which is a hallmark of Turkish baklava. Traces of spices, such as cinnamon and cardamom are also present in the Greek version of baklava. In this way, the taste and composition of baklava differs from place to place. What remains constant though is the use of honey, nuts, and filo pastry in the dish, as well as its sweet, brilliant, and crispy taste.

If you have ever tasted baklava, you might have noticed that the dish very rarely contains any chocolate element. It is a fact that no traditional baklava recipe uses chocolate; however, it may be worthy to experiment with a chocolate-based baklava recipe to see what you come can up with. As the dish is inherently sweet, the Cadbury Bourneville dark chocolate would serve as a perfect filling for it. You can chop and grind the chocolate pieces or melt the chocolate, and blend it with the nuts and the honey. The bitterness of the chocolate might provide a great counterbalance against the sweetness of the honey and the rose syrup.

Remember, the baklava evolved across several centuries and regions. It may have started off as the placenta cake in ancient Greece which was then innovated into koptoplakous by the illustrious Byzantines, which in turn, was elevated by the Ottomans into the version of this sweet dish we know and love today. Therefore, do not be shy or hesitant to give your own spin to this centuries spanning dish. Who knows, years or decades or even centuries from now, someone may be reading about a beautiful, unique, and chocolaty recipe that took root from the timeless baklava dessert!