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Arab Meets Sicilian Roots, to Other Contested Theories of the Beloved Cassata Cake

Written by Neelanjana Mondal | Nov 23, 2023 3:30:00 AM

The cassata might be one of the most underrated but widely recognized, ice cream cake-like confection that makes a rare appearance in one’s life. Join us, as we discover its roots and its homeland where it took form the first time.

You might remember the cassata, a layered dessert masquerading as an ice cream and something as indulgent as the cakey sundae, long before gourmet ice cream truly became mainstream. The cassata might seem like an Indian invention, given how it was some of our childhood days’ rare indulgence, like that ganache-drenched pastry slice we treat ourselves to on our cheat days, but that is not the case at all.

The cassata is of Italian origin, Sicily to be exact, and is centuries old, just like its adopted sibling to the Sicilian cannoli. The Italian cassata was also born under the same roof as the cannoli, that is., during the Arab rule in Sicily around the 10th century. Having said that, now let’s get into the history of this delightful slice of joy.

The History

The most widely accepted version is one of the Arabs’; it is said that the cassata has its origins in medieval Sicily, where the Arab influence combined with local culinary traditions to create this unique dessert. The Arab invaders introduced new ingredients and techniques that would go on to define Sicilian cuisine. One such ingredient was ricotta cheese, brought by the Moors from North Africa.

Almost every source links the cassata cake to the Arab invasion of Sicily in the 10th century. When the Arabs arrived, they also brought their techniques for sugar production to the island. The Arabs introduced their skills in sugar-making, merging them with the existing pastry-making traditions in Sicily. It is theorized that this cultural exchange between the invading Arabs and local populations led to an early prototype of the ricotta-filled cassata cake.

So it happened that in the royal kitchens of Palermo, innovative chefs began experimenting with layers of ricotta sweetened with honey or sugar. They would encase these creamy layers within circles of sponge cake or delicate pastry. The result was a confection that resembled the color and texture of alabaster—pale, smooth, and translucent. Only the crimson ribbons of candied fruit peeking through its surface hinted at the rich filling within.

While many agree the Arab introduction of sugar to Sicily played a role in the cassata cake's beginnings, not all historians are convinced this theory tells the full story.

A Cheese-Based Hypothesis

Some argue the name itself points to a different root—coming from the Latin word for cheese, "caseus." As ricotta cheese remains a signature ingredient, could the cake's origins lie with Italian cheese-making traditions rather than sugar? Proponents note that cheese was a staple of Sicilian cuisine for centuries before Arab contact.

A Palermo Pastry Chef's Innovation

Another account places Cassata's birth in 19th-century Palermo. According to this view, an ambitious pastry chef found himself with excess candied fruit on hand. In a flash of inspiration, he decided to decorate a local ricotta cake with sweet morsels. From there, the ornate "Cassata Siciliana" was born—not out of ancient history but modern kitchen ingenuity.

A Humble Pie's Evolution

Some argue the cassata began not as an extravagant cake but as a simpler fruit-filled pie. Over generations, as sugar arts and pastry skills progressed on the island, this rustic pie transformed into the multi-layered dessert we know today. Multiple cultures in Sicily contributed to Cassata's evolution without any single group laying a definitive claim.

The Iconic Cassata Today

Over time, as pastry-making and sugar production evolved across Sicily and wealth increased, cassata recipes incorporated fresh ricotta cheese and more decorative elements. This more sophisticated version became known as the "Cassata Siciliana."

Traditionally, cassata was reserved for special occasions like Easter due to the multi-day process required and expensive premium ingredients like ricotta, nuts for marzipan, and candied fruit. Regional variations in ingredients and preparation developed throughout Sicily linked to local agricultural and food traditions.

In the early 1900s, Sicilian immigrants abroad introduced cassata to other parts of Italy and beyond, spreading its popularity while developing some new interpretations.

Traditionalists emphasize ricotta cheese as a defining part of any authentic cassata recipe, tracing its significance to rural Sicilian culture and foodways.

But the original cassata despite its evolution and centuries having passed, has cemented its iconic form—a round cake with a ricotta cheese heart, its pale exterior dyed a vivid emerald green with food coloring. Adorned with ribbons of candied cherries or oranges, the cassata became a symbol of Sicily's cultural fusion and a prized treat enjoyed by all.